Courmayeur Mont Blanc: Ski area guide

Courmayeur is the Aosta Valley resort that lives in the shadow of Mont Blanc, the roof of Europe at 4,808 metres. Wilder and more mountaineering-minded than the big Dolomite ski areas, it has a different soul. Here the real mountain, with its glaciers, sharp ridges and silence, stays at the heart of the experience, even when you head down to the old town for a glass of Vallée d’Aoste Blanc de Morgex.

Skyway Monte Bianco

Opened in 2015 after years of work, the Skyway Monte Bianco quickly became one of the most photographed attractions in the Alps, and it is much more than a lift. Its Italian-designed cabins rotate slowly as they climb, giving a 360° view that opens up from the Courmayeur station (1,310 m) all the way to Punta Helbronner (3,466 m) on the Italian-French border.

It is not a ski lift. The Skyway is a sightseeing attraction in its own right, open all year round, with a viewing terrace that on clear days takes in the peaks of three countries, Italy, France and Switzerland, in one breathtaking sweep. It is Italian design applied to the mountains at its best.

The link with Chamonix

The Mont Blanc Tunnel, 11.6 km long, is more than a road link between Italy and France: it connects two ski worlds. Chamonix is about fifteen minutes from Courmayeur, so in winter you can ski on both sides of Mont Blanc in the same day, with combined ski passes that cover both resorts.

The real legend that joins the two sides of the massif, though, is the Vallée Blanche: an almost 20 km off-piste descent from the Aiguille du Midi down to Chamonix across the Mer de Glace glacier. It draws expert skiers from all over the world.

The slopes

The ski area lies between 1,224 and 2,755 metres, on terrain that reflects its high-mountain setting: more technical and wilder than Cervinia or the Dolomite resorts.

• Aiguille Grise. The runs on this side are steep and need good technique, with stretches of glacial terrain that experienced skiers love.
• Plan Checrouit. More accessible, with intermediate terrain for families and anyone who prefers a gentler pace.

The off-piste is excellent. The glacial shape of the massif produces snow of a quality rarely matched in the Italian Alps.

The old town

Unlike many alpine resorts built from scratch for tourism, Courmayeur has kept a real medieval centre: narrow pedestrian streets, Aosta Valley architecture in stone and wood, craft shops and an atmosphere untouched by the worst of property speculation.

It feels less showy than Cortina, more intimate and alpine, with a mix of sporty visitors, climbers and true mountain lovers. Via Roma and the streets around it are home to good restaurants, wine bars serving Aosta Valley wines and long-established venues that have been there for generations.

Getting there

Courmayeur is about two hours from Turin on the A5 motorway, or you can come through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from Chamonix in France.

Geneva international airport is about ninety minutes away by car. That makes it the main airport for skiers from northern Europe and the English-speaking world, which partly explains the resort’s international feel.