Pontedilegno-Tonale: Ski area guide

Passo Tonale is unique among Italian ski resorts: a resort on a pass at 1,884 metres, straddling Lombardy and Trentino, that combines a traditional winter ski area with the only accessible summer glacier skiing in the area. It is not a luxury resort or a place to be seen. It is a resort that works, and works well, for people who put snow first.

The Presena glacier

What sets the Tonale apart from every other ski area in Lombardy is the Presena glacier: one of the very few skiable glaciers left in Italy, open from December until late July. Its highest point is at 3,016 metres, and on clear days the view stretches across the whole of the central Alps.

Summer snow on the glacier has its own character: granular, dry and firm. Early in the morning, before the June sun gets to work, it gives a glide that is hard to find anywhere else at that time of year. People who try it once tend to come back.

The winter ski area

In winter the ski area covers 100 km of runs on both sides of the pass, mostly of medium difficulty. The blue and red runs suit families and intermediate skiers, with a few more demanding runs for those who want some adrenaline.

Bear in mind that the higher parts of the ski area are exposed to the wind. On days with a strong north wind some lifts may be restricted, so it is a good habit to check the webcams or the official website before you set off. Thirty well-placed lifts handle the crowds well, even in peak weeks.

A self-contained resort

Unlike Alta Badia or Val Gardena, the Tonale is not part of a large multi-resort circuit. It is self-contained but far from lacking: a well-organised ski school, equipment hire, mountain restaurants with views of the Presena, and children’s areas with a baby park and green runs.

If you choose the Tonale you do not need to go anywhere else. Everything is on the spot, and much cheaper than at the big resorts.

Easy to reach from two sides

Logistically, the Tonale draws on one of the largest catchment areas in the central Alps. From the Lombardy side you drive up the Valle Camonica from the Brescia-Milan motorway in about two hours. From the Trentino side you arrive via Dimaro and Madonna di Campiglio, about an hour and a half from Trento. From Milan the journey takes about two and a half hours.

This double access makes it a natural choice for skiers from two of the largest metropolitan areas in Italy.

Atmosphere

Passo Tonale is not Campiglio, and it does not try to be. The atmosphere is down-to-earth in the best sense: genuine and no-frills, popular with skiers from Lombardy and Trentino who value guaranteed snow and would rather spend their budget on the ski pass than on a hotel suite. Prices are low compared with the top resorts, and the balance of snow quality and cost is among the best in the Italian Alps.

Getting there

• From Brescia, via the Valle Camonica: about 2 hours.
• From Trento, via Dimaro: about 1 hour 30 minutes.
• From Milan, on the A4 and then the A8 or A9 with the SS36: about 2 hours 30 minutes, depending on traffic around the city.